美味小店 大闸蟹正当季

2008年11月23日星期日

上班族最辛苦的除了工作本身,每天的午餐这等大事也总是难倒人,深挖细寻总是可以有新发现;又是一年大闸蟹上市时节,贵是贵,不过平易近人的美味小店不是没有,看你找不找得到。

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对我这样的上班族来说,每天的午饭的确是个很头大的问题,在搜寻了一番后发现了一家不错的地方―老丰阁,这家老牌名店最近推出了午市点心全部对折活动,另加一款只需10 元的泡椒映金蛙吸引了我。深井烧鹅一直是我钟爱的粤菜烧味之一,鹅肉本身皮脆肉香,蘸食的酸甜梅子酱也是我爱吃鹅肉的原因之一。脆皮妙龄鸽一看名字就想到了乳鸽的鲜嫩味道,一尝之下不得不佩服厨师的手艺,乳鸽制作的技巧除了鸽子本身之外就是对于油温的掌握,这里的乳鸽能吃得出来是经过热油反复烫熟而非普通的油炸,不然怎么会吃到嘴里汁水四溢呢。
  
虾饺是我吃粤菜的必点,这里的虾饺皮薄晶莹,馅料十足虾味浓郁,只恨人多分得少;黑椒牛仔骨则是黑椒味浓郁,牛仔骨处理得鲜嫩可口;紫金蒸凤爪要做好同样不容易,凤爪要选个头壮的炸出来才能充分起皮,再经过长时间的蒸制确保了吃到嘴里有肥糯的口感,骨头一抿即出为上品;肠粉类的产品配上鲜虾的馅料更显鲜美,如果肠粉皮子做得更韧一些的话就完美了。家乡粢饭糕令我想到了小时候吃粢饭糕时的场景,作为茶市点心在外观上做了改良,手指长的细条形能吃到更多脆脆的边角,吃完之后嘴里还都是香脆的口感。鲜芒果布丁讨巧地做成了心形,不仅芒果味浓郁还能吃到大颗粒的芒果肉,浇上炼乳更是香甜。不可小看的是泡椒映金蛙,虽然是特价,可量却一点不少,香辣可口,肥美入味。
 
 Gourmet Café 挺红火, 最近开了姐妹店,就在老店旁边,用的也是相同的名字,只是吃汉堡包的店门楣是橙色的,吃面的这家门楣是绿色的,门上就写着simple,fresh,gourmet,半敞开式的厨房加上简洁的装修处处透露出随意又精细。主食虽然以面条为主打,用的却是西式做法,各种口味都有,还有不少新奇的组合。
  根据西餐的次序分前菜、主菜和餐后甜品,还有饮料和鸡尾酒。酸辣水牛城鸡翅做了挺久的时间才上来,果然是慢工出细活儿,4 个翅中做了个球状的造型,经中深度油炸后再裹上可口的泰式酸甜酱,一下子就把胃口给打开了,好吃又方便,不用担心吃鸡翅时手嘴并用的尴尬相。牛颊肉云吞面条,名字看着觉得比较特别,服务生说这款的点击率还挺高的,端上来的时候发现就是馄饨面。菜单上写的是荞麦高汤面,但是吃起来软软的有点烂糊面的口感,和日式荞麦面的口感完全不同,馄饨包得就像一件小袄一样扁扁方方很可爱,里面的馅心是香菇牛颊肉,一咬开来牛肉味就很浓郁。另外还有一个双面煎的荷包蛋,吃起来有点酸酸的味道,用了菠菜做配菜,汤头鲜美。
 
 甜品点了冻茉莉花茶米糕配葡萄干蜂蜜,端上来一个大碗,原来是糊状的甜品,茉莉花味很浓,里面还有夹生的米饭配着颗粒状的berry,吃起来有甜甜的蜂蜜味。量看上去不大,吃下去还挺管饱的,算是一款挺有创意的甜品。
  巧克力香蕉炸油条配薄荷冰激淋,油条内嵌香蕉,油条脆香蕉软浇上巧克力沙司组合出又一款fusion 美食。服务细心环境温馨是吸引我再来的理由,当然还为了尝更多新奇的美味。
  
巨鹿路我并不陌生,但是连我在内同去的朋友都对这家金缘蟹王都不怎么熟悉,想着名字这么贵气装潢应当也是金碧辉煌,没想到却是一家平易近人的店铺。店分两个门面,1 楼不过4 张小圆桌,但是2 楼却有包房,去的当晚还遇到几个当红的港台内地明星在包房里大嚼蟹脚,看来不起眼的小店倒是在娱乐圈内有着一定的知名度呢。
 
 都说是蟹王,不来几个大闸蟹说不大过去,招牌上写着“阳澄湖大闸蟹”,到底是不是只有老板和吃过的人最有发言权,名气响价格倒不欺人,50 元一只可以吃到4 两的雄蟹,花上100大洋即可品尝到足6 两的蟹王了。在这个季节雌蟹会更好吃些,蟹黄足吃起来爽,就是配的姜醋偏甜,显然是糖放多了,根据梁实秋先生所言,吃蟹配姜醋便是最佳搭配,无需放糖,当然有人喜欢品尝蟹本身的鲜味而不喜蘸调料,这就是个人的喜好了。
  
卖蟹的当然也会一并供应蟹粉类的菜肴,蟹粉煮干丝,盘子里黄黄的一层蟹油还能清楚地看到蟹肉,只是看上去油足,吃起来不如看着的好,干丝切得偏粗,虽配了火腿但蟹粉味不足,倒是一道炒螺蛳却是吃得我有滋有味,这家的螺蛳用的豆瓣酱和干辣椒加葱姜炒,味道鲜美我足吃了有半盘有余;招牌白斩鸡令人失望,都是鸡胸肉,木乎乎的肉自然吃起来没什么滋味;一道香辣田鸡倒是炒出了川菜馆子的水准,田鸡只只壮硕鲜味十足,顿觉满足。酒酿园子烧带鱼,地道的本帮菜,浓油赤酱,酒酿园子糯香可口带鱼鲜嫩;来3 两河虾油爆了,虾壳被热油爆得香脆异常,可以连壳带肉一起吞下肚去了,最后用炒鸡毛菜爽一下肠胃,作为完美收场是再合适不过的了。这时门外已经排起队来,看来预订是必须的。

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