如今叫你游玩伊斯兰国土，大多数人估计想起拉登多过阿拉丁神灯的浪漫故事。其实危险有时是我们过多给目的地的标签罢了，比如位于阿拉伯海湾的巴林就不然。这个在地图上只有珍珠大小的岛屿，是中东各国相对最开放的乐土，也是每年F1赛车的举办地。“一千零一夜”在此也确实存在，因为Banyan Tree唯一建于沙漠线上的杰作正在这里，更坐拥全球及中东最大的迷城水疗皇宫。在迷城以外的平民市集，我们也窥见了巴林人的欢乐，其实也纯真得很。
走近巴林的一千零一夜
2008年5月8日星期四
巴林王国（Kingdom of Bahrain）由30多个岛屿组成，地处沙特阿拉伯东面及卡塔尔半岛北方，开发得最完善的是首府Manama所在的巴林岛和Muharraq岛。在1930年代这儿就因为石油而富甲一方，如今更是金融贸易汇集，国人都过着不用交税但有各种福利的好日子。飞机翱翔在沙特阿拉伯上空，连想喝杯啤酒都不可能，而在巴林的Resort你便可夜夜笙歌，难怪大多数沙特阿拉伯和欧洲的游客，都将巴林作为中东度假目的地首选。
“色香味”冰火水疗
一切只怪Banyan Tree太浮夸，在缺水的沙漠地带──巴林，打造了这个全球最有规模的阿拉伯风情Spa，才有了我们这次中东奢华之旅。先别说以阿拉伯皇宫为概念的金碧辉煌设计细节，单单是那上千平方米的空间，便包括了全球最大的“中东花园式浴池”（Garden Hammam）、12间有独立按摩花洒床及私密花园的spa套房、美容salon、室内室外大泳池……这些都只是配套设施，来这儿最想试的还是备齐16种“冰火水疗”主题的水疗花园（Hydrothermal Garden）。
先预约选定一种“冰火水疗”体验套餐，在90至120分钟内，由水疗师带你游花园，细听解说后，你可以自己动手在16个“冰火水疗站”，尝试各种让你意想不到的花洒浴、蒸气浴和桑拿。每个拱形水疗室都以金砖和马赛克铺成，再融入颜色、灯光、香熏及接近极点的温差，每一个细节都别有洞天。例如蒸桑拿，居然会夸张到有星空看；必须一试的“季风水疗站”（Monsoon Shower），更有闪电、雷声及极地冰水淋浴的体验，帮助刺激和活化细胞；还有室内只有6度的“冰屋”（Ice Igloo），水疗师会叫你徒手取冰然后循环按摩全身。正是这种处处都“歇斯底里”的spa体验与东南亚的水疗或按摩大大不同，全球也唯独在这家Banyan Tree Spa Al Areen有得玩。
Banyan Tree Desert Spa & Resort, Al Areen
地址：Sakhir, Kingdom of Bahrain
电话：973-17-845000
网址：www.banyantree.com
价格：“基本水疗体验套餐”包括10个体验，120分钟，价格约880元人民币；“Gui Shi Rainmist”耗时180分钟，价格约2100元。
住进迷城里的皇宫
巴林王国的主岛巴林岛，由南至北约48公里，由东至西亦只有16公里，有开发井然的公路连贯，约一小时车程便可贯通，绝不会迷路。这里说的“迷城”，是坐落在此岛西南面的Banyan Tree Spa & Resort。
建于沙漠地域的巴林Banyan Tree，位处Al Areen区，也是中东唯一的全别墅式度假村。78间villa当中，56间是只有一个睡房的Desert Pool Villa，但每个已有400多平方；其余的22间Royal Pool Villa更是接近800平方米，结合中东传统阿拉伯宫殿及近代阿拉伯室内设计精粹，以金铜及浅橙为主色。为何要造得这么大，因为每个villa都包括了独立的恒温私人泳池及jacuzzi、仿阿拉伯人传统只有沙发的独立休息室、king-Size床睡房、饭厅及客厅。每个villa的浴室也都有大浴缸、蒸汽淋浴室及露天的户外淋浴间等诸多细节，villa内的各个空间既独立宽敞又四通八达。400平方米的villa就已有九道门之多，刚进去要花8分钟才能逛完,如果是要摸熟一切、喝杯咖啡、搞个蒸气浴再泡个jacuzzi，没有半天估计下不来。
我们曾亲眼看见某石油王子一行众人入住，因为这里实在太大了。加上有24小时管家服务，想在villa内BBQ更有私人大厨坐镇服侍，一切都可以足不出villa。
管家服务大测试
Resort的硬件绝对过硬，那么软件如何呢？于是我们很“刁钻”地测试了这里的24小时管家服务，在这个号称员工与客房比例4:1的皇宫酒店里，一一把脉管家们的服务质量和殷勤程度。
这里的“pillow selection”服务，酒店备齐了六款软硬度、宽度及曲线度都不同的羽毛、海绵和纤维枕，我对管家进行了非人的折磨。本人入住的4晚先后换了3次枕头，中间更是反反复复地更换，管家奉命换完一次又一次，每次完成时间不超过15分钟，不由得我们不服。
Room Service讲求快和食物新鲜度，此两项基本要求其实在打电话预订至送达时已过关——约25分钟。管家单手捧着几十斤重的餐盘，由进Villa大门后，被本人三心两意地一时钦点摆放食物于饭厅，一时又放回客厅，来回足足3次，每次距离约90米，他都在3分钟内以笑脸完成，服务质量堪称五星级。
最摩登的大清真寺
模特Janine在英国长大，走进Al Fateh Mosque（也称The Grand Mosque大清真寺），入乡随俗，披上神圣面纱，令我想起电影《我在伊朗长大》里调皮但敢作敢为的女主角。她与看似封闭专制的伊斯兰国家，原来这般匹配。
在巴林的大清真寺内，人人都可体验伊斯兰教的神秘一面。女性游客只要在进殿堂前先披上面纱和穿上传统黑服（Abaya），便可放心地游走于殿堂的每一个角落，亲身感受每日五次祈祷颂经的震憾时刻（日出、正午、黄昏、日落及深夜）。
大清真寺建成于1980年代末，是巴林最大的清真寺，也是当地位列第一的雄伟建筑物（那些“杜拜风格”的夸张尖端建筑除外）。因为殿堂的大圆顶是全世界最大的，设计上又特别用60吨半球形的玻璃纤维来打造自然光透进殿堂每一角落的效果；又有逾千盏吊灯挂在主殿堂内，一反清真寺的古朴严肃，这里的感觉相当摩登。
主殿堂连接着室外露天区域，及专为相对仍要保守行事的沙特阿拉伯女子信徒而设的小殿堂，可容纳差不多近7000人。纵然你不是信徒，都可入内参观，因这里很自由，没有宗教忌讳及言语不通的问题，造访时有人会为你解说——连翻译成中文的《古兰经》都有。
Al Fateh Mosque
地址：King Faisal Highway（Gulf Hotel对面）
电话：973-715-713
开放时间：9am-4pm （星期五及公众假期除外）
注：由于resort离市中心及主要景点约需35分钟车程，建议参加当地旅行团。
阿里爸爸的市集
出发前，我们便已为幻想中的中东市集抓狂：那儿应该是挤满阿里爸爸，坐在街头抽着水烟，然后满街都是五颜六色的布料和香料。而到了巴林，才发现只猜对了一半。
先到距离酒店Al Areen区约10分钟车程的平民区Zallaq，走入镇内便有零星几家当地人必到杂货店、咖啡馆及面包铺，摆设非常简陋，但碰上骨子里极热情兼爱拍照的巴林人。
首府Manama的Gold Souk（阿拉伯语的“市集”之意）与上海的一些核心区域一样大型商场林立，但购物环境都暗沉沉的。但你打算开始血拼的时候，当地人都抢着压低价钱来拉你。我们的随行团友忍不住买了帽子和头巾，便一下子在现场深得民心，赚到无数个“你好”的热情款待。
至于昔日巴林岛尚未开发时的巴林首府Muharraq，以前与巴林岛一水之隔以渡轮连接，现在有快速公路10分钟直达。
The Manama Souk
地址：Bab Al-Bahrain Road（尤其集中于Bab Al-Bahrain archway至Shaikh Abdulla Road一带）
营业时间：9am-9pm（视不同商店而定）
Muharraq Souk
地址：Al Hawaj,Muharraq
营业时间：9am-9pm（视不同商店而定）
巴林六天行程建议
第一天：乘航班前往巴林，约在晚上抵达度假村，可在酒店内最具特色的Saffron泰式餐厅吃晚饭，然后到位于主楼三楼的Vertigo喝酒及欣赏夜景。
第二天：早上到酒店内的Rimal吃早餐，然后可整天游走度假村。先享用Villa内的蒸汽浴及jacuzzi设施，然后到水疗花园尝试不同的花洒式水疗、再做做按摩浸浴；晚上在酒店叫的士出首府Manama逛市集及吃晚饭
第三天：上午参加当地团游览必到的地标景点，如Bahrain National Museum，是全中东地区最大的博物馆，地下及一楼的常设展览讲尽巴林五千年来分别被葡萄牙及英国统治至独立的历史和传统文化的精髓；下午可到距离Manama约17公里的Bahrain Fort，是16世纪葡萄牙统治巴林时建的重要遗迹。晚上回酒店品尝“in-villa BBQ”或“island dining”。
第四天：上午到第二大城Muharraq，参观大清真寺Grand Mosque及19世纪古宅Shaikh Isa House，看下当地传统建筑，尤其门窗的几何设计和图纹雕饰，这些在市内的当代建筑物也都能经常见到。下午可到Muharraq逛市集，然后吃晚饭。
第五天、第六天：留在resort做按摩，或往市集最后冲刺买手信。黄昏前往机场，乘夜机回国。次日下午左右抵达上海。
Bahrain National Museum
地址：The Muharraq Causeway及King Faisal Highway交界
开放时间：8am-8pm
入场费：约人民币10元
Bahrain Fort
地址：Karbabad Village, Kingdom of Bahrain
Shaikh Isa House
地址：Beit Shaikh Isa, Shaik AbdullahAvenue, Muharraq, Kingdom of Bahrain
开放时间：8am-2pm（星期六至四）；3:30pm -6:30pm （星期一及二）
入场费：约人民币4元
上海出发资讯
签证：中国公民可事先到巴林驻外使领馆申请办理，抵达巴林机场后可拿到停留期为14天的旅游落地签证，签证费为15美元。但单身、不懂外语且无接待单位（担保人）或无预订酒店的人员一般会被拒绝入境。巴林驻北京大使馆地址：北京塔园外交人员办公楼2-9-1；电话：65325025，65325016。
航班：目前中国公民前往巴林可乘坐阿联酋航空的航班，在迪拜转机，往返票价不含税在5000元左右。另外，总部设在巴林首都麦纳麦的海湾航空公司近日宣布，将于今年６月开通从巴林至上海的直达航线，每周将有4个航班。
货币及汇率：巴林当地货币分为Dinar和fils，1 Dinar相等于1000 fils，主要流通的Dinar是纸币，包括1、5、10及20；而fils硬币包括5、10、25、50、100及500。建议带美元前往当地后再换，1 Dinar约等于2.66美元。而市内的银行或酒店汇率比机场的更佳。
气候：巴林属热带沙漠气候，10月-4月是最舒适的秋天及冬天，气温约15-20度，有雨；5-9月为非常炎热的春夏天，湿度很高，气温能达到47度以上。
语言：官方语言是阿拉伯语，英语广泛通用。
时差：比上海慢5小时
电压：230V，三孔方脚插头。
当地交通：机场往resort约160元人民币，须时约35分钟；resort往Manama市中心约160-300元不等，白天和晚上价格不同，建议在酒店电召已议定目的地的出租车。市内公共交通工具只有的士及巴士，但由于居民多有自驾车，并不太完善及普及。建议大家前往景点还是参加当地团或乘的士直达。
当地导游推介：Ms Taqiya Al Mahroos
老实热情又好客，我们因祈祷时分不便进入路边专为女人而设的清真寺拍摄，她问好当地人后即拿着相机帮忙拍照。最后还带一行十人到她家作客。
电话：973-17-231027
电邮：http://www.bundpic.com/taqe777@hotmail.com
巴林旅游注意事项
到伊斯兰国家旅游肯定没有猪肉吃，不过巴林相对开放，酒精饮品在餐厅酒店可尽情享用；街上则有伪装成啤酒的饮料卖，0%酒精含量，虽淡口但麦味够浓，约10元一瓶。
中东地区的夏天非常炎热，巴林的商店餐厅市集在1pm-4pm会关门小休；购物商场则一周开足七日（10am-10pm）。
因历法不同，伊斯兰国家的周末或休息日是星期四及五，星期六才是一周之始。但听导游说因沙特阿拉伯太多人去巴林度假，巴林的官方周末或休息日改成周五及周六，避免塞车。
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